Archive for the 'Training and Taming' Category

Change Is Good

Thursday, January 14th, 2010

Well, 2009 brought much work and many suprises in the world of Parrot rescue.  I have now started my own facility and brought many of the birds with difficult issues with me from my previous facility where I was the Director.  Over the past few months there were many times that I thought this was too much or that starting over was not worth it but as I have worked with these birds daily seeing the progress that each one is making I began to realize that every sweet birdie kiss makes it all worth while!

Simon and Sophia are a pair of Blue Crown Conures who were purchased as breeders by their previous owners.  They had never been held and were very aggressive toward everyone; you could not get near them.  Although they have a wonderful vocabulary and love to say things like ”I love you,” “Peak a Boo” and so forth. This made it even more heartbreaking when you realized that you couldn’t just pick them up and kiss all over them when they spoke so sweetly….for fear of having your face ripped off! :)  We started working with them more right before Christmas and it wasn’t long before my son came running in one morning and he said “Mom, I got Sophia to step up!” I almost cried I was so excited that after all this time we were finally making progress.  Over the next week we continued slowly trying to build trust with Simon who is a little more skeptical of us.  Sophia got to where when Simon would try to bite us she would bite his toe and tell him “No” which I thought was very cute!  Before we knew it we were able to get Simon to step up out of his cage, what a happy day!  Now were are able to hold both of them although we have to be very careful and watch our movements as to not startle them and we still have to do the old dodge and weave to avoid Simon’s beak occasionally but we have high hopes for this New Year.

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How To Teach Parrot Training Tricks: Discover The Shake Hands Trick [Part 2]

Wednesday, July 22nd, 2009

Now that you and your parrot have perfected the UP command, it’s time to move on to the next basic trick. Let’s use the UP command to help your parrot learn how to shake hands. Many parrots can learn this trick in only one or two session while others may require a few more training sessions.

Because the trick is built upon the already-familiar UP command, it is one of the easiest tricks to teach your parrot and can be a building-block for many more tricks. To inspire you in taking some real action with what you’ll learn, please watch this video PROOF from YouTube on how this “non parrot trainer” can easily teach this trick (among many others) to their birds.

Step-by-Step Trick Training: The Skake Hands Trick

So, here’s a breakdown of some of the parrot trick training steps you must follow to work on the shake hands parrot trick.

First of all, you’ll want to determine which foot your parrot uses as his primary foot. People are either left-handed or right-handed and parrots prefer to stand on one foot more than the other, becoming less confident if required to stand only on their non-primary foot. Notice when your parrot steps UP which foot is raised first. This is the primary foot and will be the foot which is used for shaking hands.

While people always extend the right hand, not all parrots are willing to offer their right foot for shaking. You can encourage your parrot to use the right foot if you prefer, but it is much, much easier to allow the bird to shake hands with the foot which it prefers to use.

Step One: Choose the Command

You may prefer to use “shake” or “give me four” (parrots only have four toes instead of five fingers). What word or words you select is not as important as being consistent with the use of the command you select. You can’t expect your parrot to respond if you have taught it to shake hands when you say “shake” but the next time you say “give me your foot” or something similar. Consistency is the absolute key.

Step Two: Speak the Command

Simply say the command you have decided to consistently use when you want your parrot to shake hands. Speak clearly and assertively but also kindly.

Step Three: Get the Parrot to Lift One Foot

Because your parrot knows to step up when you present your finger or arm, you will use this to get the bird to lift one foot. Because you do not want it to actually step up, you should offer room for only one foot. If you normally offer your finger, then place your finger so that only the primary foot will have room on your finger.

Step Four: Grasp the Raised Foot

As your parrot lifts its primary foot to step onto your finger, gently grasp the foot and move it up and down very gently once.

Step Five: Reward

As soon as the parrot has allowed you to shake its foot, immediately offer the reward you have found to work best for training. You’ll find information in Appendix A about choosing a reward and learning your parrot’s favorite treat. If you offer a treat, combine it with lots of praise and loving words. If your parrot loves to be tickled, give him some tickles in his favorite spot. The idea is to let him know that he has done exactly what he was asked to do when he was asked to do it.

What if the parrot didn’t lift its foot to shake hands? In that case, if it has even made any effort toward doing what you requested, then it gets a reward and you repeat the steps. If you have taught your parrot well to step UP on command, then if you have difficulty getting him to lift one foot, you can touch its foot and it almost certainly will lift the foot so you can grasp it and then reward.

If you parrot performs only part of the behavior the first time, it gets a reward. However, the next time it must do a little bit more toward completing the behavior before receiving any reward. Do not offer a reward for going backward instead of forward in the process! Otherwise, the bird will simply “play you” to get treats!

Step Six: Repeat

During a training session, you should repeat this process four or five times. Do not ask your parrot to repeat the trick too many times or it will become bored with the idea and choose not to respond, defeating your whole purpose. Instead, wait a while — maybe an hour or two — and repeat the training. You can do this several times per day but always keep the training interesting and fun for your parrot.

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About the Author: Nora Caterino, known as the Mississippi Bird Lady, or just Bird Lady for short, has trained, raised, and lived with birds for over 30 years. You can subscribe to access news, articles, videos, forums, and receive unlimited one-on-one advice and coaching for one full year. For one-on-one coaching and advice, simply join the Elite Parrots Club at
http://www.eliteparrotsclub.com/talking.php

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How To Teach Parrot Training Tricks: Perfecting the “UP” Command [Part 1]

Monday, July 13th, 2009

In this report, you will learn exactly, step-by-step, how to teach your parrot two simple trick behaviors and one more advanced trick. But, first you’ll learn exactly, step-by-step, how to perfect the “UP” command because that is the command on which the other basic tricks are developed. So, let’s get started!

Perfecting the “UP” Command

I was asked recently if the first “trick behavior” we are going to cover was a real trick or just “training”. I had to answer that any trick or behavior a parrot learns is “training”. The “UP” command is the most basic behavior in training either manners or tricks, making one of the most important behaviors you can ever teach your parrot.


Suggestion: Read first the article below or click the image to play
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Right click here and download this video to your computer!

You want your parrot to perfect the “UP” behavior so that it will perform the behavior on request without even thinking about it. It should be completely automatic that any time you ask the bird to step up onto your hand or finger it will immediately do so without ever attempting to refuse or even hesitating at all.

9 Steps For Perfecting The “UP” Command

First, I’ll list the steps needed to accomplish this training and then I will expand on each step. Here are the steps in a quick-view format:

Step 1: Choose a consistent training time

Step 2: Take parrot to training location

Step 3: Show the reward

Step 4: Speak the command

Step 5: Move forward below the breast and above the feet

Step 6: Continue moving gently forward with your finger or hand

Step 7: Praise and reward

Step 8: Repeat, making this into a game of “Ladder”

Step 9: Watch for automatic foot lifting

Now, let’s look at each of these steps in more detail so you’ll understand exactly how to teach your parrot how to step up instantly and consistently, perfecting the UP command:

Step One: Choose a consistent training time

It is best to teach your parrot behaviors and tricks when it is slightly hungry and not tired. Choose early morning, around noon or about the time your parrot normally has dinner to teach behaviors so that it will have already napped and feel energetic and ready to interact as well as interested in food rewards.

Step Two: Take parrot to training location

It is never a good idea to train your parrot on or too near the cage. This can result in the bird protecting its home instead of focusing on the training.

Take your parrot to a quiet location with which it is familiar and comfortable. Choose a spot where there is no other activity. Don’t attempt to train your bird where children are playing or the television is blaring. Don’t select a location that the parrot doesn’t know well or it will begin looking at the new surroundings and fail to pay any attention to you and the training session.

Step Three: Show the reward

When first teaching a behavior, you’ll probably choose a favorite food treat. See Appendix A for more information on reward selection. Let your parrot know that a treat is readily available which he or she especially loves to eat.

Step Four:  Speak the command

You must choose the word or phrase you’ll consistently use to request your parrot to step up onto your finger, hand or forearm. Never vary from the chosen command so that your parrot will clearly understand exactly what you are requesting and can respond correctly.

Position your finger or hand just below the parrot’s breast and just above its feet. This is the natural position in which a parrot will step from one perch to another or from one tree limb to another.

Step Five: Move forward below the breast and above the feet

Very gently, as you speak the command, move your finger, hand or forearm. Do not move so quickly or with such energy that you startle your parrot but do move with enough momentum that the parrot will understand the fact that you wish it to move to your presented hand or arm.

Step Six:  Continue moving gently forward with your finger or hand

If the parrot does not immediately lift one foot to step onto your hand or finger, continue to move your hand toward the bird gently so that it will have no choice but to step onto your hand. If your parrot is tame, it will naturally avoid having your finger or hand touch its feet and step up.

Step Seven: Praise and reward

If you parrot steps up, give it lots of praise and additional rewards such as food or scratches.

Step Eight: Repeat, making this into a game of “Ladder”

By repeating the process, you can turn this into a game of ladder, moving your free hand back to the front each time and again asking your parrot to step up. At first, repeat for only five or six times. As the parrot learns to enjoy the game, you can repeat it more times but limit the number to prevent your bird from getting bored with the behavior, keeping the training to less than two minutes.

Step Nine: Watch for automatic foot lifting

Once your parrot has been performing this super-simple trick for several sessions, start noticing if its foot rises instantly when you speak the command requesting it to step up. Once the parrot begins to respond without thinking about the command, you will be ready to move on to other simple tricks.

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About the Author: Nora Caterino, known as the Mississippi Bird Lady, or just Bird Lady for short, has trained, raised, and lived with birds for over 30 years. You can subscribe to access news, articles, videos, forums, and receive unlimited one-on-one advice and coaching for one full year. For one-on-one coaching and advice, simply join the Elite Parrots Club at
http://www.eliteparrotsclub.com/talking.php

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Trick Training Assumptions [Appendix A]

Monday, July 13th, 2009

In order to teach a parrot any type of tricks, you must have first developed a bonded relationship with your parrot. Your parrot must be tame and generally socialized. This doesn’t mean your bird has to have absolutely perfect behavior in every respect, in fact some of this training is directed to helping you develop better behavior in your bird and better control because you will be able to consistently obtain a known response from your bird when he or she is asked to perform a behavior. By teaching your bird that you will respond positively to its positive behavior and responses, it becomes easy to teach new behaviors and responses as well as basic manners commands.

Socialization and Tameness

Your parrot should already have developed tameness and willingness to sit with you. If a parrot is not tame and does not want human contact, it will have no desire to perform any behaviors. If that is the case, you need to first tame your parrot and develop a social bond with it.

Ideally, your parrot will be so tame that it will love to receive scratches and pets from you. It must be at least tame enough to accept food from your fingers in order to provide a reward on which to base the training.

Consistency in Training, Requests, Bridges and Rewards

The training must be performed in a consistent manner. So, you will need to teach your parrot during some time every day. Spending time teaching a behavior for a few minutes one day and then waiting until the next week to again perform any training will not allow you to teach your parrot quickly and get the responses you desire. In fact, it may well confuse your bird.

You must also be consistent with the use of words you choose for commands and for the praise bridge word. There is no hard and fast rule about which words you will want to use as the command. For example, I use “step up” for the “UP” command words and “good bird” said with lots of love and enthusiasm as the bridge words (more about bridge words later in this report) to let the bird know it has done well.

However, you might choose to say “step” or “up” or some other logical phrase for the “UP” command and might choose “great” or “good” for a bridge word. Whatever words you choose to requests behaviors and to offer praise in the form of the bridge word, it must be the exact same every single time in order to allow the parrot to know what you desire. You can’t say “get on my finger” once time and “step up here” another time and expect your parrot to know what you want, certainly not at first. Be consistent with requests and bridge words as well as rewards.

Rewards

Now you may be wondering how you will know what the best reward is to provide to your parrot during early trick training and later during further training. After all, you want to teach your parrot tricks as easily as possible. Well, I can help you determine the best reward for your particular parrot.

Treats

When you first begin training your parrot, it is likely you will get the best response by offering a treat as a reward. Here is where it becomes a problem to select the very best item to offer. After all, your parrot has to WANT the reward in order to associate the command/behavior response with the pleasure of a treat, making the bird really want to do what you ask.

Here’s how to choose the best treat for your own parrot. It will not be the same treat for each parrot, possibly not even each parrot in your own home if you have multiple birds, and not even parrots of the same species. Each parrot has its own preferences and one bird may love peanuts while another could absolutely care less if it ever eats another peanut in its entire life but goes nuts for a bit of walnut or a sunflower seed.

Perform the following experiment process before you begin training your parrot so you start the training with the best choice of rewards. Here are the steps to learn your parrot’s best treat reward:

Select a day when you can be with your parrot for a little time in the morning. The evening before, remove all food from your parrot’s cage when you put it to bed for the night. This way your bird will not wake up and eat before you awaken.

Because parrots are hungry in the morning upon wakening, you must perform this little test the very first thing. Prepare a food dish which contains four or five treats that you believe your parrot really enjoys. These might include half a peanut or other type of nut, a sunflower seed, a bit of peanut butter on a cracker corner, a bit of apple or other fruit, or a kernel of fresh raw corn or other vegetable.

Place the dish of treats inside your parrot’s cage. The parrot will likely come right over to grab some food. Note which item it chooses first. Immediately afterwards, place your parrot’s normal daily diet in its cage so it can eat until it is no longer hungry. Of course, you can include the treats not chosen first in its regular food.

Repeat this process several different days and you will notice your bird picks one treat first most of the time. Three to five tests should be enough to reveal a clear preference. Then you can be absolutely sure that the item chosen most often is your parrot’s best loved treat.

You will almost certainly find that the treat your companion parrot loves best is one of the high fat items offered. Parrots love foods that are high in fat, but remember, fat must be limited in their diets in order to ensure good health.

We’ll delve into the process of how exactly to work with the treat reward as we get into the steps of trick training.

Praise, Scratches, Love, Cuddles and Non-Food Rewards

Parrots which are human-bonded and have learned already that human praise and other non-food rewards are just as wonderful as for doing the right behavior as a food reward. If your parrot was hand reared, it may even be so bonded to humans that it will willingly accept this type of reward from the very beginning. Many hand reared parrots do. The rest of the companion parrots will need a little time working with food treats before switching over to non-food treats.

Food is a great motivator when training parrots. If your parrot is not hand reared or has not developed a firm bond with humans and you as its specific human, then it is best to begin working with food rewards. After the parrot learns the behavior completely and realized that it will gain a lot of praise and attention, many parrots will then willingly perform the behavior when asked whether food is offered or not. This is the end-goal of training.

Even if your parrot demands that a food treat be provided, you can still teach the bird tricks. So, don’t think that you must remove that form of reward if it works best for you and your particular parrot.

Review of Training Assumptions

So, let’s review the training assumptions:

  • Parrot is friendly and tame
  • Parrot is socially bonded to human that will be performing the training
  • Parrot must have a desire to please their human
  • Human must be consistent with training program
  • Human must know what the parrot desires as a reward for correct behavior
  • Human must also be consistent with words to request behaviors and bridge phrases and rewards.

In the next post I will show you how to teach parrot training tricks like perfecting the ‘up command’ of bird training.

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About the Author: Nora Caterino, known as the Mississippi Bird Lady, or just Bird Lady for short, has trained, raised, and lived with birds for over 30 years. You can subscribe to access news, articles, videos, forums, and receive unlimited one-on-one advice and coaching for one full year. For one-on-one coaching and advice, simply join the Elite Parrots Club athttp://www.eliteparrotsclub.com/talking.php

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Behavioural Problems in Companion Parrots!

Thursday, March 19th, 2009

Published as “Who’s a Naughty Parrot then?” in Veterinary Times, (UK) 18th Feb 2008. 

Introduction and general issues. 

The sight of a badly self-plucked parrot in the surgery with its owner hoping for some ‘cure’ is all too frequent.  Sometimes the bird has removed 90% of its own feathers and may even be self-mutilating its flesh.  We might ask why such a sight is so common in parrot-like birds.  

It is of course as easy to acquire these ‘exotic’ animals as it is to acquire a hamster, a rat or a goldfish. Buyers are simply required to be over 16 years old.  Most of the needs of species such as small domesticated rodents can be met while these animals are kept as pets and the provision of these needs is not particularly demanding for the animals’ keeper.  Nor are these animals particularly long-lived.

Conversely, the medium-sized and larger parrots have complex needs and a lifespan similar to humans (Low 1992).  However, it is as easy to acquire a parrot as it is any other commonly-available (but domesticated) species and this ease of acquisition bears no relationship to the knowledge required in order to keep the bird well.  This is perhaps at the heart of the matter when we look at the quality of care many parrots receive as companion animals. 

While the condition of the plumage of wild parrots varies and these birds may damage each others’ feathers there are no incidents of self-harming in wild parrots; the behaviour is confined to captive birds.  Here, the condition seems more common in lone (caged) companion birds as opposed to aviary birds which have the company of their own kind.  

Since there may well be dietary and medical issues which contribute to self-harming in parrots, these aspects should always be investigated when presented with a bird in this condition.  However, self-harming always includes a behavioural component since the bird is making a voluntary decision to damage its own body, so this aspect needs to be examined as well. 

We know that where an animal’s behavioural needs are frustrated, then the animal is vulnerable to behavioural problems.  Engebretson (2006) writes: “The freedom to express normal behaviour and the freedom from distress appear to be inextricably linked in captive parrots and other birds kept as pets.”  

While we do not have many detailed studies of the behavioural ecology of many species of wild parrots, we do know that they are highly social animals which typically spend most of the day-time engaged in foraging for a range of foods, flying, and mutual preening (Birchall 1990).  

Captive parrots, in addition to being unable to perform many of their normal, natural daily behaviours, are also subjected to a range of other common management practices within the bird-keeping world which would seem likely to exacerbate behavioural frustrations.  

These include parental deprivation (hand-rearing), being confined to small cages for most of the time, deprived of flight through wing-clipping and kept in solitude.  It is worth reviewing how captive parrots are produced [for the pet trade] and kept at present. 

Hand-rearing.

While some aviculturists allow some of their breeding pairs to raise their own young, many parrots are hand-reared.   Even before the ending of the commercial importation of wild-caught birds into the European Union in 2007, most captive-bred parrots destined for the pet trade were being hand-reared.  

The hand-rearing process may start with removal of eggs; these being incubated artificially.  The reasons for hand-rearing are essentially commercial.  Where eggs are removed from a laying female, she is stimulated to re-lay her ‘lost’ clutch, so more eggs can be had from her each year than is natural.  As a result of being fed by humans as neonates, hand-reared parrots exhibit submissive behaviours to humans.  

This trait continues, at least until the birds reach maturity at 2 to 5 years old (depending on the species).  The submissive behaviours ensure the birds are tractable and can be handled by potential buyers and ‘cuddle-tame’ parrots sell much quicker in the pet shops than those which are not so tame. 

At sexual maturity, many hand-reared parrots tend to show sexual imprinting to humans.  The process of hand-rearing has adverse effects on the behaviour of African grey parrots when they mature (Schmid, Doherr and Steiger 2005).  Indeed, many behavioural problems do not manifest until the birds become young adults.  
Typically these problems include over-bonding to one member of the household and aggressive biting of anyone who approaches the bird’s favoured person.  The bird’s normal contact calls often escalate into distress calls whenever the favoured person leaves the room, so the bird becomes a ‘screamer’ or noise nuisance.  These sexually imprinted birds experience behavioural frustrations with which they fail to cope.  

These birds are then vulnerable to a range of unwanted behaviours, the most common being stereotypies and self-harming of feathers; these tend to manifest when the birds are no longer immature.  So the hand-rearing, or what we might more accurately call parental deprivation, sets in place a behavioural time-bomb with a 2 to 5 year delay in behavioural problems.  

Indeed, according to Schmid, et al. the maladaptive behaviours of hand-reared birds appears to be largely in proportion to the amount of parental deprivation they have experienced.  Where birds are part-parent raised (not removed from the nest until at least 8 weeks old) they suffer fewer behavioural problems as adults than those which have been solely hand-reared from the day of hatching.  In addition to adverse behavioural issues caused by hand-rearing, there can be adverse physical effects including osteodystrophy (Harcourt-Brown, 2003, 2004). 

Flight deprivation. 

Birds use their ability to fly in order to escape from many fearful situations.  While this escape response is the bird’s most essential predator-avoidance mechanism, it is also used to avoid a range of other adverse encounters.  However, parrots, even immature birds, are often subjected to wing-clipping.  

Clipped birds will still execute this fear-induced escape-by-flight behaviour since, being a reflex action, they have little control of how it is initiated.  Such birds are then at risk of crash-landing and injuring themselves.  So, an already fearful situation is exacerbated by the bird’s often painful crash-landings.  

Such events would not be repeated in a wild bird, since a flightless wild bird would soon be dead.  These events can trigger so-called ‘phobic’ behaviours in parrots.  Phobic birds display an apparently exaggerated fear in response to ‘harmless’ situations (Luescher, 2006).  In the author’s experience, many phobic birds are flight impaired; due either to being wing-clipped or self-mutilation.  Since these birds cannot employ their escape reaction their ‘phobia’ is likely to be reinforced each time they try to avoid some fearful event.  

If they do not ‘escape’ the problem because they cannot, and also hurt themselves when crash-landing, then pain and fear become more frequent and ‘unavoidable’ realities for them.  Where phobic birds have flight restored (by imping or removal of feather stumps to initiate feather re-growth) their confidence improves and their fearful reactions tend to subside.  

As clipped birds risk breaking their growing blood feathers, imping also offers good protection while these feathers grow back.  Non-wing clipped birds can of course easily be taught several requests to fly to and from their keepers and this obviates the ‘need’ for wing-clipping. 

Over-use of the cage.

Were dogs and cats to be confined to small cages and only let out for an hour or two each day we would not be surprised to see more incidences of ‘behavioural’ problems in these animals.  Captive birds are, by default often confined to cages for most of their lives.  For parrots, over-use of small cages which may also be bereft of environmental stimulation commonly leads to stereotypical behaviours, particularly route-tracing and self-plucking (Meehan, Garner and Mench 2003).  

However, where birds have many hours each day out of their cages and are provided with a stimulating environment which includes facilities to forage for some foods they are far less likely to suffer behavioural problems.  Without direct, physical contact with their keepers or other birds, the caged bird is, essentially in solitary confinement. 

While captive parrots are commonly subjected to some or all of the above conditions (conditions which are inimical to their behavioural needs) they have a further common problem.  This relates to how their keepers interact with them when they are out of the cage. 

Relationship with owner and applied behaviour analysis. 

Where the bird’s keeper can be persuaded to provide the bird with a more stimulating general environment which includes several hours out of the cage each day, facilities for foraging for some food, flying opportunities and the company of other parrot-like birds, then the bird’s general behavioural frustrations will be greatly reduced. However, some unwanted behaviours such as biting and self-plucking may still occur in some birds.  

Changing these behaviours will require a more focussed, scientific approach from the bird’s keeper.  In the author’s view, the most effective means of reducing and even eliminating unwanted behaviours is to use methods grounded in applied behaviour analysis (ABA).  The use of ABA for modifying some parrot behaviours has been advocated for some years by Dr Susan Friedman (see www.thegabrielfoundation.org ) in the USA.  

The efficacy and suitability of ABA lies in its use of positive reinforcement (rewards) for desired behaviours while eschewing any aversive interactions with birds such as punishment, admonishment or negative reinforcement.  The rewards used are determined essentially, by the particular bird.  Some respond very well to food treats, other will ‘work’ for a head-scratch or access to a favourite toy (Glendell 2007).  Where unwanted behaviours occur, a non-antagonistic approach is maintained.  Birds are not reprimanded or ‘challenged’ for any unwanted behaviour.  

The concept of ‘dominating’ a bird and forcing it to do certain actions and be 100% compliant is rejected, largely on welfare grounds.  As highly social animals without a simple order of ‘dominance’ found in some species of mammals, a parrot’s need for companionship and company can be used to ask it to refrain from unwanted behaviours.  

So, instead of returning a ‘bad’ bird to its cage in response to some unwanted behaviour, the keeper calmly removes themselves from the company of the bird for a few minutes by walking out of the room.  Once a bird understands the connection between an unwanted behaviour and its favoured person leaving it, it has an incentive to cease the behaviour.

In order to make real progress in the care of companion parrots, many ‘traditional’ avicultural practices need to be dispensed with.  A cessation of hand-rearing -simply letting parrots raise their own progeny- will certainly help.  Training birds to accept some simple flight requests from their keepers removes the ‘need’ for wing-clipping and most birds learn these requests within a few days.  

Ensuring owners are fully aware of the need for birds to be out of their cages for many hours each day is also necessary.  Of course all of this first requires people to change their behaviour, and that is always the really difficult task for vets and behaviourists alike. 

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About the Author:  Greg Glendell is the UK’s only full-time a companion parrot behaviourist; his consultancy is based in Somerset. He runs a free feather-donor service for avian vets and can supply flight feathers from most ‘pet’ species to vets for imping.   Greg has written several books on parrot care; Breaking Bad Habits in Parrots is his latest.  He keeps several parrots, including African and Timneh greys, Amazons and a Meyer’s parrot.  Find information on Greg’s consultancy at http://www.greg-parrots.co.uk   

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References:
Birchall 1990.  Who’s a clever parrot then? New Scientist Feb. 24th 1990.
Engebretson M.  2006.  A review of parrots as companion animals.  Animal Welfare Vol. 15. (3).  (UFAW). 
Friedman, Dr S www.thegabrielfoundation.org  Accessed on 15 Nov 2007. 
Glendell G 2007.  Breaking Bad Habits in Parrots.  Interpet. 
Graham 1998.  Pet Birds: historical and modern perspectives on the keeper and the kept.  Jrnl. of American Vet. Med. Ass.  212 8). 
Harcourt-Brown N 2003.  Incidents of juvenile osteosdytrophy in hand-reared grey parrots.  Veterinary Record, 152 438-439. 
Harcourt-Brown, N 2004.  Development of the skeleton and feathers of dusky parrots in relation to their behaviour.  Veterinary Record 154.  42-48. 
Low R 1992.  Parrots; their care and breeding.  Blandford. 
Luescher, A U (ed). 2006.  Manual of parrot behavior.  Blackwell. 
Meehan, CL Garner, JP and Mench. JA.  Isosexual pair housing improves the welfare of young Amazon parrots. Applied Animal Behaviour Science 81. 73-88  2003.
Schmid R,  Doherr M G  & Steiger  A 2005.  The Influence of the Breeding Method on the Behaviour of Adult African Grey Parrots.  Applied Animal Behaviour Science 2005.  See www.sciencedirect.com
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